Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it enters a international community of cities urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has always shaped its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their younger generation do not want to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to learn these narratives and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
